We're now on the island of Sao Miguel, hiking, body surfing, lounging.
Leaving Flores in pouring rain and 12 foot seas (no breaking
waves this time) was less than comfortable, but necessary to keep moving. A high
pressure system sits over the Azores in the summer, so any movement of the high results in big shifts in wind direction. Not
taking advantage of a weather window means getting stuck until another wind shift.
For example, here are wind maps for this week Thursday and
Friday, exactly 24 hours apart. Notice the wacky shift in direction; these aren't a sailor's best friend.
Still, sailing in the Azores has its merits. You can't go an
hour without dolphins playing alongside you like excited children chasing a
parade float.
In the middle of the night, a pair of whales surfaced feet from our boat, black silhouettes on a moonlit sea. Hypnotized by the rolling of waves, I was suddenly jolted alert by what sounded like pressure release valves bursting open. Luckily I was upwind and did not get covered in smelly whale breath.
In the middle of the night, a pair of whales surfaced feet from our boat, black silhouettes on a moonlit sea. Hypnotized by the rolling of waves, I was suddenly jolted alert by what sounded like pressure release valves bursting open. Luckily I was upwind and did not get covered in smelly whale breath.
Each island in the Azores is known for its unique festivals
each year. On Flores, we experienced the Festa do Emigrante, celebrating the
immigration of early Portuguese settlers to the uninhabited islands in the
1400's. Bread, cheese, wine and milk, the staples of production here, were
given out in abundance to hundreds of people while a community orchestra played
traditional Portuguese music.
In Horta, we took part in the Festival of the Sea. The Mayor
himself came down to the Marina and gave the crew of each boat a gift of
flowers, one pound of local cheese, and an invitation to dinner held in honor
of the sailors who visit each year. The dinner was fantastic; fresh fish,
cheese, bread, wine, beer, live music, oh my! During the day, locals raced in
their traditional whaling boats while kids zig-zagged the harbor in sailing
dinghies.
Amanda and I took a ferry to Pico Island and climbed the tallest peak in Portugal, a dormant volcano rising 7,713 feet above sea level. Why the classy hiking clothes? We hitchhike to the trailhead on all our hikes, and it's easier to get a ride when you look decent.
On Sao Miguel, tourism promotes a healthy mix of well-maintained beaches, hiking trails and nightlife. A cheap, efficient bus system provides transportation to most places on the island. Amanda and I hiked to Lagoa do Fogo, a turquoise-blue lake hidden in a volcanic crater. Rugged mountains give way to calm beaches along the lake shore.
Next week: 900 miles to Portugal!
