Friday, July 25, 2014

Next Stop: Horta

We intended to spend a couple of days on Flores. That turned into two weeks. One local said if we've seen Flores, we've seen the Azores. Perhaps he's biased, but it's easy to believe.


This is by far the most beautiful place I've seen in my life. The island is COVERED with flowers. Dramatic sea cliffs plunge into the ocean. Cows roam rolling green hills separated by vibrant blue hydrangeas. Sleepy towns hide streets of cobblestone cut from lava rock. Whitewashed homes are topped with red clay roofs. Instead of grass lawns, locals have burgeoning gardens of corn, potatoes, squash, cabbage, tomatoes and cucumber.

Beautiful landscapes aren't the islands only treasure--the people of Flores create the friendliest, most generous community I've ever experienced. And this is as an outsider. You know how people in cities suddenly find the ground really interesting when you walk by? Here, every person greets you as a friend.


We traveled Flores by hitchhiking (the customs official even recommended it). Rarely did more than three cars pass before someone pulled over. What's more, they would stop at scenic spots along the way, turn off the engine, and patiently wait for us to take pictures before continuing. After the second person tried stopping to let us take pictures, we insisted they keep driving, feeling guilty we were taking advantage of their overwhelming generosity.



Amanda and I sat on the dock next to some locals one night and fished for dinner. We eventually packed up empty-handed. But before we could leave, the fisherman beside us reached into his catch and filled a recycled grocery bag with enough fish to feed a family of ten. Us not speaking Portuguese, he not speaking English, we understood each other perfectly; Amanda and I couldn't leave without accepting the fish.

Over the weekend, we ran out of Euros and the local banks were closed. An annual festival was taking place and the locals set up large tent restaurants for the occasion.

We befriended the chef of one restaurant, a Finnish immigrant named Tino, who happened to be taking a break on the street. Amongst casual conversation, we mentioned our dilemma.

"No worries!" he said. "Come eat at my restaurant and pay whenever you can."

The thing is, the festival ended that night and the restaurant would be dismantled and staff disbanded.

"How can we pay if you won't be here tomorrow?" I asked.

"I live on the other side of the island, just ask around for the crazy Finnish guy!" Tino Replied.

With that, we were treated as guests of honor.

Three days later we sought out Tino's house to pay our dinner bill. It only took two tries to find someone who knew him.

"Go up the street. You'll see a big yellow house--that's not his house. Go past it and turn right. Walk down the alley and look for a stone wall between two white houses with a barking dog. Follow the grass trail until you see the wooden house with a grass roof." Explained a woman named Rafaela.

We should've expected that simply paying for our meal and continuing on was out of the question. Tino invited us into his home and introduced us to his family. We spent the afternoon picking vegetables in his organic garden, preparing a feast for dinner, sharing stories, and of course, eating said feast.

While we could easily spend months here, the Flores experience simply reinforces the need to sail on. How many other Flores' await with beautiful vistas and warm people waiting to share a meal and a story?

A small weather window opens tonight amongst 12 foot seas and 30 knot winds...Horta, here we come!





17 comments:

  1. sounds wonderful> Love the flowers. Kaiao, you should consider becoming an author-you have a knack for describing things.

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    1. Thanks Diana, I've considered it as a future endeavor, I need to build up the experiences first!

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  2. You guys are having such amazing experiences! I wish you a safe passage on your way to more!

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    1. Joe, you should see the volcano we're going to hike next. I haven't looked into the details, but it sure looks big from where we are a few miles away. If you go to my facebook, I posted a picture of it. Pico island. Hope all is well on your end!

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  3. Kaiao and Amanda -

    I just read through your entire blog (and the article!). What a joy to read of your experiences and that you're doing well. Truly an inspiration.

    I'm still planning on flying my plane down to the Lesser Antilles to meet up if that jives with your plans.

    Stay safe and keep up the fantastic photos and narratives.

    Bill

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    1. Hey Bill! Glad you found the blog, thanks for reading. Our plans are very open ended right now, the Caribbean is still option #1 come December, but we'll see as it gets closer. I had a realization halfway across the Atlantic. The wind died and we couldn't move. An airliner flew overhead, likely from Europe to the US, and I thought "he'll take 5 hours to do what'll take us 25 days. Fuuuuuu@&#$?$." So we'll have to keep in touch about it. Are you in FL yet???

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    2. Keeping in mind at this time of year you get 11 hours of sunshine and average temperatures of 86 in the Med. September the temp usually drops to mid 70's and by Nov. you're down to 6 hours of daylight and temps in the 60's. I mention daylight hours as in the Med the shipping lanes are truly busy!! So at night alert watch keeping is intense. Serving about USS Samuel B Roberts and USS Detroit our port calls were standard so I can still remember distances from the Straits of Gibralter - Naples, Italy 952 nm, Piraeus, Greece 1512 nm, Malaga, Spain 60 nm, Ville Franche, France 765nm, Souda Bay, Crete 1117 nm. I liked Malaga the best because of the train service, easy short runs to Seville, but fabulous service to Madrid changing to Barcelona, Nice, Milan, or Madrid, Bordeaux, Paris, or Bordeaux, Lyon, Frankfort. Ports in the Bay of Biscay with departure in fall/winter are NOT FOR THE FAINT OF HEART. Barcelona has a huge Festival around 3rd week of September called La Mercee, the nighly fire run fills the streets with even more energy and light than one already finds daily.

      Once on Portugal or Spain's Atlantic Coast, you may be tempted to stop and settle in up one of the Spanish Rias where protection and inland travel options exist (e.g. Villa Garcia or A Coruna).

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    3. Henry, thanks for the recommendations! We're thinking of using the rail system to travel through Spain and up to France for starters. Lagos seems like the best place to store the boat now that we're here. We'll definitely try to catch that festival in Spain as we head that way!

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  4. One observation, if you make landfall at Cabo sao Vencente - Lagos and later decide to head for the Med there are lots of nice stops along the way, but few places to anchor - Ayamonte, Rota (US Navy Base there but so are lots of US parts), Cadiz, Gib its usually a downwind run and the closer you get to Gib you'll see boat speed pick up from easterly current (there is no much evaporation in the Med that the Atlantic is constantly replenishing the Med).

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    1. Henry, seeing Cape St. Vincent was amazing, what a picturesque rock & lighthouse! We're actually in Lagos now, about to put the boat on the hard and travel Europe by plane/train for a few months.

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  5. Meanwhile back in the states: http://www.ack.net/Sailboatsinksaftercollision080714.html

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  6. Meanwhile Lauren Bacall passed away this week, which reminded me of a famous quote of her husband, Humphrey Bogart - “Unless you really understand the water, and understand the reason for being on it, and understand the love of sailing and the feeling of quietness and solitude, you don’t really belong on a boat anyway. I think Hemingway said one time that the sea is the last free place on earth.” - Santana was the name of his boat and I remember having her pointed out to me upon arriving in Avalon aboard a ferry out of San Pedro in 1951.

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    1. Excellent quote! I truly understand it after the last few months. The solitude is amazing in nice weather, quite nerve-racking in stormy conditions. But that is what shapes a person, isn't it? Knowing that no one is there to help you through.

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    2. This is exactly how I expected you to spend this magical year! Meeting the most amazing people, eating local fish and veggies, going of the beaten path, sucking the marrow life!

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